There are many things to consider when treating skin of color. Aesthetic treatments come in all shapes and sizes, some of which are not safe for all skin tones, especially those with high melanin. Because of that fact, there is a lot of misinformation and fear out there about all kinds of treatments that are suitable for any skin tone.
We spoke with experts to learn what makes some treatments “colorblind” and what’s actually safe for all skin tones.
What makes the treatment “color blind”?
Color blindness treatment is a treatment that a dermatologist can perform on any skin tone without increasing the risk of hyperpigmentation or similar side effects. In addition, these treatments are considered so safe that skin tone is rarely considered or taken into consideration during treatment.
“There are tons of treatments for every skin tone,” explains Janet Allenby, M.D., a dermatologist in Delray Beach, Florida. “Fillers are easy. Neurotoxins are easy. There’s almost no discoloration on the needle prick, but that’s a very rare reaction.”
There are many myths and misinformation regarding the treatment of skin for people of color, including fears that injection treatments may cause hyperpigmentation at injection sites. This myth has been explained in detail here.
According to Janine Hopkins, M.D., a dermatologist in Monroe, Los Angeles, a treatment that is safe for all skin tones must use little or very selective heat. “The heat from the laser can cause burns and blisters, and damage melanocytes, resulting in loss of pigment or darkening of the skin,” explains Dr. Hopkins. “I often do ‘cold laser resurfacing’ on my darker-skinned patients. It’s for.”
Treatments that don’t use heat at all are the best options for darker skin tones and tend to be the first choice for safety and good results. Gentle acid peels, facials, microneedling, etc. are all examples of beauty treatments that are generally safe for all skin tones.
Treatment of dark skin tones and scarring and hyperpigmentation
Dermatologist Tina Ulster, M.D., of Washington, D.C., said skin conditions such as acne scars and chloasma, which are commonly treated with lasers in fair-skinned patients, are favorable and safe treatment options for people of color. explain that there is “Darker-skinned patients have a lot of options, depending on what they are treating,” Dr. Ulster explains. She “always wants to start with safer options such as light chemical peels, microneedles and fillers for certain scars.”
In this way, dermatologists can consider stronger options. “Lasers are really a last resort for people with melasma and atrophic scars, as the heat can cause more hyperpigmentation if you’re not used to darker skin tones,” says Dr. Ulster. says.
Laser technology has also advanced significantly and is now safe to use on all skin tones.
“Certain lasers, such as the Photona and AeroLace lasers, are safe settings for all skin types, including pigmented skin, because the wavelength of the light avoids pigment in the upper layers of the skin,” explains Dr. Hopkins. Masu. “It can also be adjusted to avoid heating the skin, which can burn or damage pigment cells.”
It’s always a good idea to do your research if you’re not sure how popular or recent devices affect your skin tone. Check out the before and after photos and don’t be afraid to ask your provider questions.
“As you know, there are so many devices out there, and they are not all created equal,” says Dr. Allenby. “They all use marketing jargon, so you have to look it up and ask questions.”
But the most important thing to keep in mind is that the practitioner should have experience tailored to your skin type and skin tone. “Seek treatment from a certified dermatologist who is well-trained in treating skin of color and who offers safe treatments for all skin types,” advises Dr. Hopkins.
Why are some treatments not safe for all skin tones?
Bertha Baum, M.D., a dermatologist in Aventura, Fla., explains that some technologies, such as laser hair removal, work by targeting melanin, making them unsafe for dark skin. “Laser hair removal technology was never thought to be safe or effective for people with darker skin,” explains Dr. Bohm. “Traditional laser hair removal systems rely on targeting the pigment (melanin) within the hair follicle.”
In addition, people with darker skin are more prone to hyperpigmentation because their skin already produces melanin. Therefore, treatments such as deep chemical peels are ruled out, as new blemishes are likely to occur.
According to Chet Mayes, M.D., a plastic surgeon in Louisville, Kentucky, the scale was developed to standardize treatments and energy levels suitable for specific skin tones. “This scale helps determine the effectiveness of lasers on different skin types,” explains Dr. Mays. “The intensity of the laser used is determined based on the skin’s response to light, similar to how different skin types respond to sunlight, which is used to achieve skin care goals. He is one of the first steps in determining the appropriate therapy and energy to do.”
Some beauty treatments are safe to use on dark skin, but should be used with caution by a trained professional familiar with treating your skin type.
Glen Dale, M.D., dermatologist Valerie D. Callender, M.D., explains that these days laser hair removal can be safely done on even dark skin. “Laser hair removal can be used on darker-skinned patients, but it must be done with caution and by a healthcare professional experienced in treating these patients,” says Dr. Callender. “Laser settings such as longer wavelengths (1064nm), longer pulse durations and skin cooling require special consideration, and many new lasers have these capabilities.”
Color-Blind Skin Treatments: What’s Safe for All Skin Tones?
